Christie’s, La Dolce Vita

SURREAL GENERATION has the pleasure to report on a recent visit to take a look at jewelry pieces of La Dolce Vita Online Sale at Christie’s office in Milan. From the exquisite selection of jewels by Italian and International Maisons, jewelry historian Evgenia Pukhaeva is going to guide us around her personal favorites.

Bvlgari Enamel, Diamond and Gold Sautoir with Pendant/Brooch. Lot 63.

Bvlgari’s flower sautoir is the star of the current auction. The piece is dated back to the 1970s’ and doesn’t look like a creation of the Italian Maison at all. We don’t see any of Bvlgari’s key elements here, and that’s the point – Bvlgari in the ’70s was the new Bvlgari. That time in the history of the Maison is marked with a search for new inspiration, new designs. For a short period, nature became the main source of the ideas, pushing away abstract forms. The Maison created pieces depicting flowers, plants, even landscapes, in a more or less stylized way. Inevitably, the choice of materials has been revised. Alongside precious gems the brand starts using semi-precious stones and enamels, combining them in the same piece.

Thus, on the one hand, The Flower Sautoire has nothing in common with the classical image of Bvlgari, on the other hand, it perfectly conveys the spirit of the Maison in that precise decade. Also, the piece is transformable into a flower pin and a striking chain.

Iconic Bvlgari designs are not missing at La Dolce Vita Online: Tubogas watches, Monete necklaces, and earrings are there for you to bid.

Another floral piece that attracted my attention is a Victorian diamond pin (lot 7). This cute bouquet is co-called en Tremblant – a piece of jewelry with trembling elements. En Tremblant ornaments were created in the XVIII century, quickly became popular, and stayed fashionable till the end of the XIX. Mostly, trembling jewelry was designed as flowers, where some beads or leaves were set on wire-coiled springs. The movement added to the piece more liveliness and more sparkle by candlelight.  

The pin from La Dolce Vita dates back to circa 1880. Is’t made of silver and gold and is set with old-cut diamonds. If you admire old cut diamonds and Victorian jewelry, lots 8 and 9 might attract your attention too.

Buccellati pieces (lots 95-97) continue to celebrate nature, in its fall charm: golden leaves in textured gold – the signature of this renowned Italian Maison.

Mario Buccellati Gold Cuff. Lot 95.

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